Perhaps the most hackneyed cliché in travel writing is to describe a foreign country as "a land of contrasts". But Japan, more than anywhere else in the world, really is such a place. Everywhere you turn you find a startling mix of the old and the new, the traditional and the novel, the past and the future. These contrasts are rooted in the tumultuous history of Japan in the 20th century.
From the beginning of the century through the Second World War, Japan's course was not without precedent. Its industrialization and colonial adventures were, quite consciously, a compressed recapitulation of the recent histories of the European powers. But everything changed in those two cataclysmic flashes of terrible light in the skies over Hiroshima and Nagasaki.
Occupation followed, and then reconstruction, although the latter term hardly seems strong enough to capture the thoroughness of the changes to Japanese society at all levels. As the nation emerged from occupation in the 1950's with its new and unique constitution, in which it forsook the practice of war for all time, it seemed poised to chart a course different from that of any other nation. Just how different was more surprising than anyone expected.
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